Everything to Know About Climbing at Squamish, BC

Spot the little white-green dot in the centre right below the power line... That's me inching up Diedre, 5.8, on the Stawamus Chief's Apron.

Living on the Canadian West Coast, you've probably heard of the big climber's mecca: Squamish, BC.

Squamish is indeed a remarkably diverse and inclusive community mostly consisting of climbers, hikers, kayakers/canoers, mountain bikers, skiers, and so on. It's a small town that has plenty amenities; including hotels, shopping centres, car rentals, parks, and more.

10/10 stars for the visit.

However, what you won't hear from people is the hidden 'downsides' of getting to - and being at - Squamish. So, here's the top 5 things I think you should know before climbing at Squamish, BC:

1. It gets busy.

2. It rains half the year.

3. It's expensive.

4. You need specific gear.

5. Know what you're there for... and stick to that purpose! (It's only too easy to get carried away!)

Not to say that Squamish isn't an amazing, beautiful, photogenic and an adventure-pro place. And yet, as it often happens with tourism locations, it's only too important to plan your trip well. Enjoy!

Under 'Cheesegrader,' V2, Grand Wall Boulders. Top 100 and definitely a must-do.

1. It gets busy.

Honestly, I doubt this will be a first for you.

Many, many people know about all the hidden gems of Squamish - and of course, come chasing after them in prime climbing season.

For example, the Grand Wall boulders area will be chock-full with rowdy groups of boulderers, and it's going to be hard to get a go on some of the Top 100 boulders (Superfly, Easy on an Easy Chair, Titanic, and etc.). The Apron gets full sun in the afternoon on clear days, and you'll be able to spot long trains of tiny climbers inching up even from the highway. Popular single-pitch sport destinations - such as Electric Avenue, The Hideout, The Big Show, and Echo Beach at Chek will have long queues of climbers waiting to try the hardest, most photogenic routes. (see explanation below!)

We found a chimney!! (Smoke Bluffs Park).

However, there's a pretty simple solution to this that only takes a bit of planning and coordinating.

• Head to the most popular areas early, early in the morning (6:30 to 7:30 am, per say) during the summer season. The sun will already be up, and the rock will still be cold, and the big plus - you'll escape the crowds.

• During the day, try looking for cool climbing in places that aren't as well known. For sport climbing, wander around Murrin Park (~15 mins driving southwest from downtown) or Shannon Falls. There's good bouldering near Area 44 and farther away in Brackendale, too. For trad, the Smoke Bluffs have a lot more small crags than it may seem at first - I guarantee you'll find good climbing even if it won't be a Top 100 for the day.

• If it's an option for you, try coordinating the time of year when you visit. The summer months (between May and September) are essentially the most popular, and Squamish gets absolutely packed with crowds.

  So, while the weather may be more compromising, consider visiting during the early fall or mid-spring. Be aware of rain and wet rock, but there will certainly be less crowds and a higher chance to hop on the classics. For example, when I visited in early October, the Cacodemon boulder was almost dead. Contrary, mid-July found the entire area teeming with large groups of people from all over!

Cleaning the anchors is NEVER boring. ;)

2. It rains half the year.

Ever heard of Squamish rain?

Well, they mean it.

Because Squamish is located in a valley between Garibaldi and the Tantalus Range, rainclouds and fog are easily trapped in between the mountains during the wet months. While the area reaches up to 40° celsius during the summer, it can rain for days in the wintertime.

So, below the photo are a couple options to choose from if you do get rained out during your visit.

At the crowded but easily-accessible (wheelchair, pet, and kid friendly) trail to the Shannon Falls viewpoint. Right across the road from Slahanie campground, it's also a great rainy day option!)

• Indoor climbing!

  Squamish offers two indoor climbing facilities: The Ground Up Climbing Centre at #207 1201 Commercial Way, and the Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op at 38036 Loggers Lane.

  - Ground Up hosts both bouldering and roped climbing, has a variety of programs and teams, and is overall a must-visit during any time of year. (https://climbgroundup.com)

  - The GWBC, contrary, is a unique climbing space as it isn't quite a gym itself. Their website advertises, "Ever wanted your own home wall, but Squamish housing prices got you down!? The co-op is open 24/7, equipped with 5 angles of spray walls, a 2024 LED MoonBoard, a standardized campus board, squat rack, and an array of training equipment." This facility gives climbers their own key to the gym, and you're free to basically show up any time, 'play your own music,' and skip the crowds. (https://grandwallbouldering.com)

  
  

• Non-climbing sightseeing!

  Despite being a top destination for all climbers alike, Squamish also has a vast variety of outdoor activities that are off the wall. Some ideas are...

  • Hike the 3 Peaks of Chief (be aware of slipping hazards)

  • Hike to the Mamquam Falls (a bit of a drive away)

  • See the Shannon Falls

  • Wander around downtown

  • Stop by the Fox and Oak bakery (definitely recommend!)

  • Check out the Climb On Equipment store to add something to your rack

  • Scope out future objectives in the Smoke Bluffs or at Alice Lake

  • Ride a gondola (may vary depending on season/weather)

Lowering off the Apron's rappel route, last pitch. Fun times! (Photo credit: squamishrockguides.com)

3. It's expensive.

As any other tourism-oriented location, the entire Squamish Valley is known for ridiculous price... for everything.

Because of this, keep in mind when planning your budget that the most expensive things aren't always the best options.

Accommodation:

• Instead of hotels/AirBnBs, look for campgrounds such as Alice Lake, Grand Wall, or Slahanie. Or, if you have a van/car camping option, Squamish offers plenty of free overnight parking spots, ranging from specific curbside locations to the climbers' campground/parking at Chek.

Food:

• You won't have trouble finding restaurants in Squamish, but consider camping/cooking yourself to save money. The Squamish Farmer's Market on Sundays offers a great variety of fresh produce and meats. My personal favourite is Flipside Burgers just outside of downtown!

Now you'll understand why climbers chase that feeling when you stand under a giant wall... this might only be the first pitches of the Apron, but it sure looks grand enough when right below it!

• You need specific gear.

Squamish is known for its coarse granite cracks and gullies, precautious slabs, and endless offwidths. However, in order to climb all of these famous gems, one requires a specific set of gear.

Ever heard of the "Squamish Rack"?

This name encompasses the recommended set of trad gear to own in order to be able to safely climb most the routes at Squamish. Generally known as a Standard Rack (SR), this refers to a single set of cams from 10.5mm to 115mm (or 0.5” to 3.5”). Most climbers choose to double up on some pieces, depending on route. The recommended minimum rope length is 70m, allowing for flexibility between single-pitch and multi-pitch climbing. Most multipitch routes in Squamish have clearly-defined anchors with either chains, rap-rings, mallions, or guidebook-specified cam/nut placements.

For a seasoned climber, this shouldn't pose a hazard. However, for somebody just beginning to climb, buying all of this in advance for just a single trip is a big take. Consider travelling with somebody well-acquainted with both the area and the gear.

Aesthetic Shannon Falls in all its summer beauty.

5. Know what you're there for... and stick to that purpose! (It's only too easy to get carried away!)

Trust me when I say that Squamish is more than a lifetime of climbing.

While not so glamorous as famed European or U.S. locations (Arco, Rodellar, Chamonix, Red Rocks, Yosemite, etc.), Squamish is the perfect little town filled with many hidden gems yet to be found.

That's why my biggest piece of advice to you is to visit Squamish with a particular PURPOSE in mind.

Are you planning to send that long-wanted outdoor 13a? Or project a Top 100 in the Grand Wall boulders? Maybe you're going to dedicate this trip to finally ticking a few routes on the Apron or the Chief. Perhaps it's going to to spend a week in Check.

Whatever your experience, climbing style, and goals are, Squamish definitely has something for you to enjoy. After all, you'll always be able to book another ferry or flight and come back.

Looking out to the Tantalus Range just behind us with my fellow adventure buddy, Mom! (Photo credit: Nicole Chickloski).

Enjoy visiting Squamish!

-- Sophia