Exploring the PNW: Island-Hopping in the Gulf Islands

Exploring Pender Island's rocky beaches.

Imagine the waves crashing over white shell beaches, towering pine trees casting shade onto the cove. Just above, a rustic road leads you to a line of artsy shops and shacks with locals waving at you and baking delicious scones. These are the Gulf Islands, part of Canada's beautiful Pacific Northwest. And what better way to experience it all than hopping from island to island?

First of all... what is the PNW?

Geographically, the Pacific Northwest spans western North America and includes British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. Its skyline is dominated by very rugged, dramatic terrain, from the windswept Pacific coastline to the Coast Mountains and the Cascades. This area is part of the Ring of Fire, a ring of active stratovolcanoes volcanoes around the Pacific Ocean, so seismic activity is not an uncommon occurrence. The PNW is also a mix unique microclimates featuring lush temperate rainforests, high deserts, and marine ecosystems. Most of the PNW remains rural and forested (thank god!), and settlements are mostly scattered by the coastline. Some examples are Vancouver, BC, Seattle, WA, and Portland, OR. The people living in these areas are especially known to host active lifestyles dominated by nature (hiking, fishing, camping), and support eco-friendly policies.

At a glance...

• Almost 820,000 square km of forested land

• 884 municipalities

• Above 33,000 freshwater lakes

• Common flora: Douglas fir, Western redcedar, Western hemlock, Red alder, Big Leaf maple, Ponderosa pine, Western sword fern, Salal berry, Oregon grape, Vine maple, Salmon berry/Thimble berry, etc.

Tiny sailboat crossing a channel between two of the Southern Gulf Islands.

Going island-hopping in the Gulf Islands? Here's what you NEED to know!

The Canadian Gulf Islands are a place you're not going to forget soon. It's the best way to try exploring the PNW, stress-free. This stunning archipelago of tiny islands is sprinkled in the Salish Sea between Vancouver Island and the mainland, each one different from another. The Northern Gulf Islands are situated further by Nanaimo, Comox, and Sunshine Coast. These are generally more rural and harder to reach: some ferries depart once a day by passenger-only from the mainland, and others have no official ferry transportation at all. The Southern Gulf Islands (ideal for your island-hopping excursion!) are densely-situated, more populated, and easier to access. They are known for vibrant artist communities, authentic and quirky village vibes, and amazing temperate weather.

Where: Gulf Islands, British Columbia, Canada

Best time of year: March - October (be prepared for rain at any point)

Fees: You will need to pay a ticket per person/per vehicle for a BC Ferries ride to each island (some routes do not require/include the return fare). Scroll down to see the full ferry breakdown.

see below for tips, tricks, and secret local spots! 👇 (and an amazing photo gallery!)

Southern Gulf Islands:

• Salt Spring Island

• Galiano Island

• Pender Islands (North and South)

• Mayne Island

• Saturna Island

• Gabriola Island

Northern Gulf Islands:

• Hornby Island

• Denman Island

• Texada Island

• Lasqueti Island

• Quadra Island

• Cortes Island

Gulf Islands NOT serviced by BC Ferries:

• Sidney Island

• Prevost Island

• Portland Island

• Thetis Island

• Penelakut Island

• Valdez Island

• D'Arcy Island

• Cabbage Island

Beautiful Botanical Beach.

While you're at it... best PNW family activities:

Checklist:

1. Go for a hike 🥾

2. Eat a salal berry 🫐

3. Watch the waves crash 🌊

4. Find a tree wider than your arm's reach (wrap your arms around it and see how many people it takes!) ...these trees are usually more than 800 years old! 🌲

5. Take a selfie next to a totem pole 📸

6. Visit a Saturday Farmers Market 🐄

7. Catch a ferry ride 🚢

8. Collect driftwood from the beach and make art with it 🐚

9. Walk on the beach in the rain (no umbrella!) ☔️

10. Cross a suspension bridge 👣

Map of the Southern Gulf Islands. Underlined in RED are the ones I suggest to visit the most!

Navigating the BC Ferries:

• Ferry fares depend on the route. Popular, frequent sailings (e.g., Tsawwassen–Swartz Bay) can cost $100+ for a vehicle, while smaller island-to-island ferries start around $30. Not all ferries provide onboard services.

  
  

Tickets:

• Children under 5 ride free, while children under 12 pay a reduced child fare.

• A one-way adult foot passenger ticket starts at around $21 CAD.

  
  

Vehicles:

• I highly recommend bringing a vehicle to make getting around the island much easier.

• Vehicle fares are significantly more expensive than foot passenger fares and vary depending on the sailing time (early morning and late evening are cheaper).

Sailing schedule:

• Sailings depart frequently from Swartz Bay (Victoria), Tsawwassen (Metro Vancouver), and Fulford Harbour (Salt Spring Island), though schedules vary between weekends and weekdays.

• Smaller, more remote islands might only have two ferries per day, and sometimes at very ridiculous times (e.g. 5:00 am!)

Reservations ⭐️:

• Booking ahead (additional $20 reservation fee) is highly recommended, especially during summer and holiday weekends. It's a hot ticket to get on a popular ferry!

• With a reservation, arrive at least 30 minutes before departure (the check-in cutoff).

• Without a reservation, aim to arrive 1.5–2 hours early.

To book your sailings and confirm schedule, visit https://www.bcferries.com/

Tsawassen/Metro Vancouver ferry nearing Swartz Bay, Victoria. Seen from the Pender Island ferry.

A Local's POV:

There's a couple things you need to know to make the most of your island-hopping trip.

1. Everything is closed on Sundays: Do not visit the Gulf Islands on a Sunday and expect bakeries, cafes, and restaurants to be open. Saturdays are when most farmer's markets happen, so most businesses are open and bustling. However, Sundays are usually the "off" day, surprising many tourists.

   
   

2. Roads and trails: There are dozens of parks and protected areas on the Gulf Islands. While most trails are serviced by BC Parks (and include public washrooms and trail markers), not all of them are. Some trails may cross private property, so maps may be outdated. Sometimes, road conditions require you to have a 4x4 to reach the trailhead. However, it's safe to say most short, moderate hikes are quite accessible by almost any vehicle - so you'll definitely have lots of hiking options either way. :)

3. Cell service: This can get a bit... creative. Don't rely entirely on digital maps and your phone in general - many smaller islands don't have very good cell service despite having really complicated road networks. Pre-downloading any route maps, or even screenshotting Google Maps may be a good idea.

   
   

4. Respect island quiet: Many of the Gulf Islands aren't really 'tourist destinations.' They're places where people live, work, and farm - not hubs for sightseeing. Keep noise down, stay on trails, and don't block tiny roads while stopping for photos. A lot of the locals there are incredibly friendly: we met a family running a small quesadilla food truck on our way to the ferry, and they gave us free tortillas while talking about their business. ❤️ Enjoy the islands without making the locals regret you discovered it.

   
   

5. And the biggest one... The distances might look tiny. The logistics aren't. Island-hopping means centering your adventure around ferry schedules. In reality, a short distance can require a long ferry (with stops at other islands before yours!), a long wait between sailings, and another transfer. Always, always give yourself a buffer in case a sailing is full - missing the last ferry isn't the kind of spontaneous adventure you're looking for. Build your itinerary around ferry connections, not kilometres.

If this were my adventure... here's what I would do:

• Don't try to cram in as many islands as you can in a day. Instead, spread out your adventure over several days, to let you experience the most of each unique community. The islands are FILLED with campgrounds - booking ahead may be a wise move during peak summer months.

  
  

• The best 'island gems' are the least-travelled. Think Gabriola, Saturna, etc. Of course, this means catching that extra ferry, walking that extra 3 km, waking up at 4:00 am and driving down that dirt road. Because all the special secret spots are, well, secret!

  
  

• Save the north for another trip. When someone says "island hopping," I think of the Southern Gulf Islands. That's because the Northern ones are so much more remote, less travelled, and inconvenient. You'll be driving all the way to Campbell River (6 hours from Victoria) for two other ferries and equally-stunning views. Contrary, islands in the south are clustered closer together, frequently serviced by BC Ferries, and easier to plan around.

  
  

Southern Gulf Islands - accessible through Swartz Bay/Tsawassen

Northern Gulf Islands - accessible only through Nanaimo/Campbell River/Horseshoe Bay (another 2 - 6 hours of driving)

• Try to avoid wrangling in Vancouver/Horseshoe Bay/Nanaimo into your itinerary, except starting and ending your trip. Many islands have small connecting ferries between each other, which don't cost a lot and will save you a lot of hassle. You'll be grateful to escape those 5+ hours of traffic, unnecessary driving, and logistics!

The BEST things to do on EACH Southern Gulf Island (must-see!):

Your adventure is yours to plan. Building an itinerary means communicating with every family member and deciding important factors like, 'how long is everyone willing to walk every day?' and 'how early can we comfortably wake up?' and etc.

Here's a tiny taster of what I've found to be the coolest, 5-star-worthy experiences on each of the Southern islands. Be sure to tick some of these off!

Sidney Island: Relax on the long sandy beach and paddle board around the island

Best for: Beach

Salt Spring Island: Visit The Woodshed and Francis Bread (2 AMAZING bakeries, next door to each other), then look for magical fairy doors while hiking Mt Erskine. Then, stop at the Saltspring Island Cheese farm for some amazing pizza.

Best for: Most things to do, farms

https://www.woodshedprovisions.com/

https://francisbread.com/

https://saltspringcheese.ca/

Galiano Island: Catch the early Swartz Bay - Sturdies Bay ferry (only direct morning sailing!), then have breakfast at the Sturdies Bay Bakery. Visit the picturesque Porlier Pass Lighthouse, then get Windows-wallpaper-worthy shots of sandstone caves at Retreat Cove. Finally, relax on the crown beach of the island, the white-shelled Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park.

Best for: Photography, amazing nature

Pender Islands (North and South): Stroll along Brooks Point to see incredible coastal views, then eat a burger at the Copper Otter.

Best for: Seaside environment

https://www.copperottergrill.com/

Mayne Island: Boulder on sandstone around the tall Active Pass Lighthouse, then stop at the Sunny Mayne Bakery and Cafe.

Best for: Lighthouse

https://www.instagram.com/sunnymaynebakery/

Saturna Island: Look out for whales on East Point, kayak around the Winter Cove Park, then hike up Mt Warburton Pike to spot the island's infamous wild goats.

Best for: Remote feel, wildlife

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Enjoy your PNW adventure!

-- Sophia