Castlecrag Mountain: Attempt #1 (The Coldest, Wettest, Muddiest Hike Yet)

Sophia

Oct 11

13 min read

Updated: 1 day ago

Looking out to Castlecrag's blocky profile through the clouds.

(August 2026)

My search for a moderate alpine scrambling objective got me interested in a small peak in the Forbidden Plateau region of Strathcona, Castlecrag Mountain. At 1,765 m, it's not particularly tall, but its main appeal lies in its iconic castle-like profile, which looks like a very epic objective when approched from Paradise Meadows. The dramatic near-vertical north aspect, which drops steeply to the shore of Moat Lake, has no documented records of ascents, but the south side is relatively easy to access.

Unlike many Island mountains, which involve miserable logging roads and hours of bushwhacking for a few pitches of choss, Castlecrag's challenge lies in distance, not difficulty. It is best known as part of the Moat Lake circuit, an epic 20km loop connecting Mt Albert Edward, Mt Frink, and Castlecrag via an alpine ridge network. Hiking Castlecrag alone is a good way to explore the subalpine terrain of Forbidden Plateau while escaping the crowds piling up on Albert Edward - the most popular, and photogenic, summit of the area.

Scroll down to hear about...

Overview (Trip Rating)
Getting There
Accommodation Options
Backcountry Camping Fees
Map
Trail Description:
- Day 1 (Paradise Meadows Trailhead - Lake Helen Mackenzie - Circlet Lake)
- Day 2 (Circlet Lake - Moat Lake - Turnaround)
- Day 3 (Circlet Lake - Lake Helen Mackenzie - Paradise Meadows Trailhead)

Castlecrag Mountain's north side seen from Moat Lake when the clouds parted for a moment.

Trip Rating: 3.5/5 STARS

While I did not get to stand on the summit of Castlecrag this year, next summer might be the one... only time will tell. As somebody who has already hiked Mt Albert Edward at 11, plus numerous other multi-day adventures in the island subalpine, I was looking for a bridge between conventional backpacking to off-trail navigation on unmarked alpine terrain. As a climber with solid multipitch experience, this connection is not hard to make, and Castlecrag tests both scrambling, route-finding, and endurance in one go.

I would not say this hike is particularly hard, because hiking from trailhead to 'basecamp' is a steady plod along an even 9km, popular among dayhikers and families with kids. Past Circlet Lake, the trail becomes narrower, but still easy to navigate due to the abundance of cairns and visibility. I cannot speak for the push past Moat Lake, the boulder field, and the supposedly 'short fun summit block scramble,' because weather didn't allow us to reach the crux of the trip.

Forbidden Plateau is best known for Mt. Albert Edward, the island's 6th-tallest mountain, summited by a steep 5.9 km to a photogenic final ridge. This trail piles with crowds on clear days and gets increasingly dangerous in whiteout. Read my 2024 Albert Edward trip review HERE (link valid when blue).

Easy linkups around Kwai and Circlet Lakes make for great introductory multi-day hikes, while the 20+ km traverse to Wood Mountain Parking Lot is less-known and crosses the core of the plateau. The ultimate objective in the area is the off-trail, point-to-point Augerpoint Traverse, which links Albert Edward with Ruth Masters Lake and Jack's Trail down to Buttle Lake. Parties completing this traverse are highly advised to be confident in GPS navigation and informal camping. Some sections of this traverse are told to be easier with a rope.

Getting There:

From Victoria, follow Trans - Canada Hwy/BC-1 N and BC-19 N to Nanaimo, then merge onto BC-19 North (Inland Island Hwy) to Courtenay. Take the exit for Dove Creek Rd /Strathcona Parkway, then follow signs upwards toward Mount Washington. At the ski resort, turn left off Strathcona Parkway onto Nordic Road to Raven Lodge. Some cars require chains on this section of the road in winter snow conditions (October through March/April).

Driving directions as of late evening traffic from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal to Raven Lodge, the official trailhead at Mt Washington Ski Resort.

Nearby Accommodation Options:

Comox Valley: The vibrant valley hosts three cities (Courtenay, Comox, and Cumberland) all which offer many Airbnb's, hotels, motels, and more. The Comox Valley is about 1hr to 30 mins away from the trailhead.

Mt Washington Ski Resort: Dominated by mountain bikers and hikers in summertime, the ski resort village is conveniently 5 mins from the trailhead. The number of hotels and lodges grows every year, but know that almost all restaurants are specifically ski-oriented and will be closed for summer. Be aware that there is no grocery store or gas station on the mountain, the nearest would be ~30 mins driving to Courtenay.

Those slopes looking sad without snow... 🥲 ❄️ We're lucky enough to have friends with an apartment on the mountain, so accommodation isn't too big of an issue.

Backcountry Camping Fees:

For this hike, standard Strathcona Provincial Park Backcountry Camping fees apply during the summer months (June 15 - September 30). This information is current as of August 2026:

16+ years old: $10

6-15 years old: $5

Under 6: No fee

Learn more about Strathcona Provincial Park's regulations at https://bcparks.ca/strathcona-park/#camping

While camping, please follow standard Leave No Trace principles and use all available food caches (or suspend food from trees, if needed). On this hike there are urine-diversion outhouses located at the trailhead, Lake Helen Mackenzie, and Circlet Lake. Kwai, Croteau, and Battleship Lakes also have campsites/group sites with bear caches and toilets, but they are not on the immediate trail to Castlecrag and would require a long unnecessary detour. Should you need to improvise a camping bathroom, please stay away from drinking water sources and head at least 50m upslope.

Trail Description:

Paradise Meadows Official Trailhead (Raven Lodge)
0 - 3 km: Well-graded gravel paths and boardwalks, part of the Centennial Circuit
3.0 km: Lake Helen Mackenize
3 - 6 km: Circle west around Lake Helen Mackenzie and over the saddle between Mt Allan Brooks and Mt Elma to the Ranger Cabin. Steep switchbacks.
6 km: Forbidden Plateau Ranger Cabin and the junction to Kwai, Croteau, and Battleship Lakes
6 - ~10 km: Steady elevation gain along a rooty trail through subalpine meadows to Circlet Lake. Several up-and-downs!
~10 km: Duck Pond and Circlet Lake (first-come, first-serve)
10.5 - 11.5 km: Take left at Albert Edward/Moat Lake junction and along a narrow cairn-marked trail to Moat Lake.
...obscure fog and rapidly-shifting clouds made this our turnaround point...
12 - 13.5 km: Stay left of Castlecrag along unmarked trails on subalpine plateau.
13.5 km: Castlecrag boulder field (steep talus field to be crossed)
~15+ km: Unmarked scramble along the south side to a summit block. The Castlecrag Mountain summit is marked by a summit register box.
Mt Frink/Albert Edward ridge junction: Bypass the right turn to the summit scramble and continue along to reach Mt Frink for the continuation of the Moat Lake Circuit.

Full route overview. Red = Day 1 & Day 3, approach to Circlet Lake. Green = 2024 route. Blue = Day 2, Circlet to Moat Lake.

All routes in Forbidden Plateau's alpine area. We took RED in 2026 and GREEN in 2024. — All routes in Forbidden Plateau's alpine area. We took **RED** in 2026 and GREEN in 2024.

All routes in the Paradise Meadows/Murray Meadows/Whiskey Meadows area. We took RED. Know that Circlet Lake is also accessible via YELLOW (Kwai Lake alternative), but this route adds an extra 2 kilometres. — All routes in the Paradise Meadows/Murray Meadows/Whiskey Meadows area. We took **RED**. Know that Circlet Lake is also accessible via YELLOW (Kwai Lake alternative), but this route adds an extra 2 kilometres.

Strathcona Park's map of the Forbidden Plateau “core area” (yellow), with km markings. Photo taken from the signpost at Lake Helen Mackenzie. Our objective, Castlecrag Mountain, is top-right of the title letters.

DAY 1:

Trailhead - Lake Helen Mackenzie - Ranger Cabin - Circlet Lake

~10 km

We weren't too worried to start out early, because the day was looking to be cold and foggy and we wanted that relaxed morning. At about ~9:30 am we drove up to Raven Lodge, filled out the camping form, and set off on the flat paths of winter nordic ski routes.

The first part of the trail was fairly uneventful, although it was interesting to remember everything after 2 years... strange how my memory from 2024 blanked out on a lot of the trail. By 10:30 we reached the trail access to Lake Helen Mackenzie. Head right for the campsite, Kwai Lake, and etc, and left for the Mt Allan Brooks/Mt Elma saddle.

Cool cloud inversions above Mt Allan Brooks and Lake Helen Mackenzie, 10:30 am.

We were to be heading straight into the thickest clouds to the left of the hill in the photo. I was hoping they'd clear up, but no luck.

Signpost at Lake Helen Mackenzie. There are toilets at the lake, plus a signpost with a map.

11:30 am and we were over the steep grunt above the saddle. Light mist began to drizzle, so it was time for rainjackets. Hoping to get above those clouds on the saddle to Murray Meadows - but out of luck, and we were plodding through this milky fog for the whole rest of the day.

The Forbidden Plateau Ranger Cabin, barely visible through the fog. (This is not a reservable public cabin; it is used by Strathcona Park rangers on maintenance work along the trails).

And more fog. Somewhere behind mom is the Mt Frink/Albert Edward ridge that looks absolutely gorgeous in clear weather…

The junction to Hairtrigger Lake at approx. ~6 km. I believe the left trail eventually connects to the Kwai Lake trail, if the correct turn is taken. Check the map and don’t quote me on it. Very exciting scenery.

Variety? This section of the trail - Murray Meadows to Whiskey Meadows is fairly flat and uninteresting, though dominated by picturesque evergreens. Hard to not get bored of this trail.

A lot of fall colours on this hike. These berries reminded me a lot of autumn…

There were SO MANY mushrooms. My family, especially Dad, is really big on mushroom picking, so by then I was almost considering making mushroom stew. Sounds delicious when you’re cold and wet and hiking 10km.

Until... Finally! (Although it is another ~1km to reach the end of the tent pads along Circlet Lake. The following day, we would take left ("Moat Lake - Mt Albert Edward - Castle Crag" arrow).

They were definitely making fun of us by now. "Scenic vistas and pristine lakes." I quoted that for the whole hike, by the way 💀.

Scenic vistas and pristine lakes! (This is Duck Pond, looking ghostly in the fog).

Recreating the same photo from 2 years ago! Left: 2024, age 11/12. First backpacking trip ever! Right: 2026...

Our camp. Circlet Lake was almost empty, however, people hiking out told us that there wasn't a single free tent pad the night before.

At around 6 pm it began to rain, so we made some dinner (noodles!) and got in the tent as quick as possible. By then, it was almost obvious we weren't getting to the summit of a pile of wet rocks tomorrow. The scramble itself wasn't so much of a concern as the descent; navigating a wet talus field does not sound like fun.

DAY 2:

Circlet Lake - Junction - Moat Lake - Castlecrag Mountain weather turnaround point

~8 km

The following morning started out bright! I was excited to see some clear skies and almost got my hopes up again.

Woke up and... blue sky! What could be better news than that?

My view as soon as I got out of the tent. As you can see, the clouds thinned out and visibility was looking much better. 🪁🌤️ Looks like we were heading to Moat Lake today!

"I see the other side!" Those faint trees across Circlet Lake did not exist yesterday!

One of Circlet Lake's outhouses, ironically glowing in a halo 😂.

Bear caches. (This is not the only set, there are 3+ scattered throughout the camp).

This campsite even boasts dishwashing stations... luxury!

🌈 Now THIS was kind-of magical. Can you see the faint rainbow? And finally, we could see Jutland Ridge - the slightly bumpy ridge left in the photo. This ridge connects directly to Mt Albert Edward's ridge and is used to access Jutland Mountain's summit.

We like to make chocolate-raspberry granola with dried mangoes, apples, and fruit puree. 😋 Look at that spectacular visibility!

I was glad to have brought my 24L alpine pack, which I typically use for multipitch climbing adventures, because that allowed me to leave this big bulky Gregory Jade 63L to dry in the sun.

10am and Duck Pond looking a little more optimistic.

Photo above shows the first set of tent pads you see upon arrival, they are convenient if you don't mind the slightly-stagnant water source and want to cut down the extra ~1km around Circlet Lake. I was voting to camp here - after all, it is nice to see your tent right away after a long day - but Mom preferred the stream running along the far end of Circlet Lake. Hence, we walked extra 🤣.

Another important lesson learned on this trip was to always wear waterproof pants, even if it isn't actively raining. A narrow trail lined with overhanging heather all the way to Moat Lake soaked my pants completely and in the end I had to wear shorts... in really cold weather. 😭

Junction! Take left for Moat Lake, Castlecrag Mountain, Mt Frink, and the Moat Lake Circuit clockwise direction. Continue straight to reach Mt Albert Edward, Jutland Mountain, Mt Regan, and the Moat Lake Circuit counter-clockwise direction. Let's go!

Along this trail, there are many picturesque wooden signs that sometimes show the correct path, and sometimes... don't. A close eye will notice the date carved on a few of them - as far as the early 1900s. Trails and junctions were obviously different back then, so do not trust them!

The first part of the Moat Lake circuit strolled through a densely-vegetated forest and many mudflats. Soon enough we were out on a rocky plateau scarcely-marked by the occasional cairn.

This part of the trail (image above) would be dangerous in white-out, so we took the time to build as many cairns as possible and mark flagging tape wherever we could. Not gonna lie, I was on the verge of making the bail-out call, because visibility was drastically dropping and we couldn't see five metres ahead. This part of the trail would've offered spectacular views on Mt Frink to the right and Castlecrag in the distance straight ahead.

This was my first time hiking in a rocky subalpine environment in cloudy conditions, and it was amazing to see how rapidly those clouds moved. I am always keen on practicing important mountaineering skills - like easy scrambling, route-finding on unmarked terrain, and white-out conditions - to better prepare myself for bigger objectives in the future.

Descended down a steep notch to the northern-most shore of Moat Lake by 11:00 am.

This tiny island on Moat Lake is privately-owned and can only be accessed by helicopter. It isn’t a part of Strathcona Park but hosts the picturesque A-frame cabins.

Found cell service! One bar only, but enough to open the radar and then it was clear, we weren’t summiting today.

There were so many false paths along this trail. Because it's a less-travelled route than the famous Albert Edward variation (Moat Lake Circuit, counter-clockwise), there are SO MANY junctions and veer-offs and faint boot-beaten paths. Gaia GPS was very helpful, unlike the trail to Cream Lake 😂 (Read about our subalpine adventures around the Septimus-Rosseau region HERE).

Behold, the "worst bridge in Strathcona!" 🤣 This bridge over Cruickshank River was famed to be Strathcona's most dangerous bridge - early photos do in fact show a rotting ladder of sticks nailed together. I was expecting a full-on river wade... until we found this! (Turns out it was rebuilt in the past few years).

Plodding along the lake. The trail dips down to the shoreline every now and then, so there are lots of opportunities to collect water (you may just have to bushwhack a little! 😉). Those almost-3 kilometres to Moat Lake (and another 3ish back) did not feel very long!

Reached the southern end of Moat Lake Moat Lake by about 1 pm. All the photos below are looking directly at the Frink/Castlecrag col in the clouds.

Bushwhacked down a slope to this hidden rocky outcrop - the perfect lunch spot, although cold.

I was desperately hoping for those clouds to lift…

Castlecrag’s lower north aspect peeking out through the clouds. Do not be deceived by this photo's seemingly round flat summit... the true summit, a castle-like cluster of spires, is invisible in this photo (and another ~1 hour farther across a boulder field).

Sunny-weather hikers don't realize how much you celebrate three minutes of clearing when it's whiteout all day. Here I'm looking southeast towards Comox Lake (Coast Mountains/mainland direction) and Forbidden Plateau on the ridgeline above the clearcuts (logging developments outside of the Park). That is where the trail to Wood Mountain/Mt Becher is. — Sunny-weather hikers don't realize how much you celebrate three minutes of clearing when it's whiteout all day. Here I'm looking **southeast towards Comox Lake** (Coast Mountains/mainland direction) and **Forbidden Plateau on the ridgeline above the clearcuts** (logging developments outside of the Park). That is where the trail to Wood Mountain/Mt Becher is.

Bridge perspective. :) Likely the sturdiest bridge I've yet seen in the wilderness.

Alpine climbing pack looking epic with these views. I also felt really comfortable hiking in it all day.

This was my first time testing my Ortovox Trad Zero 24L in the backcountry, and I loved it. The lightweight design made it easy to carry just the essentials, plus I was able to access my phone without stopping with a handy side pocket. This pack will make it to the summit with me next time, 100%! Here is is holding up great even after being thrown around in wet moss... Click HERE to read a a blog post reviewing this pack's technical features, including some more October alpine adventures! (Link valid when blue).

Wet socks, wet boots, dry-ish pants, and good views (finally!)

The clouds lifted on our way back and we got these insane views on the valley. I can't want to go back on a clear day.

Cruickshank Canyon is actually this entire valley, but known for this dramatic sheer cliff of rock. It can be accessed via a detour along the Kwai/Croteau/Battleship Lakes trail, but in my opinion, the best view is from this direction! That was we get to scope out some climbing opportunities 😁.

Selfies 😎😙 (Castlecrag is behind my head lol).

“Diana Pool.” In case you didn’t see the sign. 😂

MUD. Low-lying flatlands and of course, mud mud mud. Those who hike along the coast (Juan de Fuca, West Coast trail, North Coast trail, etc) will be used to the horrendous amounts of mud, but for us, even this marsh was too much. This mud, for example, measured halfway up my 116cm trekking pole…

Random signpost I found along the way back...

Duck Pond under Jutland Ridge, looking very different without the milky fog.

Drying socks after a long day of hiking and playing hide-and-seek with the clouds. I thought our Icebreaker socks looked photogenic. https://na.icebreaker.com/en-ca/collections/socks

DAY 3:

Circlet Lake - Lake Helen Mackenize - Trailhead

~10 km

While I was disappointed to leave without the summit, I was happy to have gotten another weekend in the backcountry before school started again. I usually hike for experience, e.g. steep scrambles for route-finding, long pushes for endurance, etc., and not for the summit tick-off. Castlecrag will wait until next summer 😄 (Stay tuned for blog post coming up summer 2027!!!)